Negativefilm form Protel to make a Dryfilm

Negativefilm form Protel to make a Dryfilm

  • STEP: 1 Design your PCB

















Step:2 Used a
KeepOutLayer... >>> Press the P button for make a Fill... is The background of

your PCB















STEP:3 Click other Layer




















Step 4 :Click a Print/preview OR hotkey F P


















STEP : 5 right click
at Mulitilayer Composite print >> go to Properties menu



















STEP6:
USE Show Holes....Gray Scale..see the picture .....remove and MOVE UP , MOVE DOWN


















STEP7.
go to Tool >>>Preferences


















STEP8.
click a copper layer , PAD , via Multilayer change are a white color


















STEP9: Keep out layer
change is a Black color



















STEP:10 PAD hole layer
change is a Black color



















step :11 the Negative film is succsess






Overview the PCB from wara


LCD3310

Last update Aug 20,2006








PIC 16F

Support

-16F876

-SPI SD/MMC

-RS232 Interface

- 2 Bottom Switch

- 1 A/D

-1 Wire DS1820

- 16 Char * 2Line

ATMEGA8


Support

- ATMEGA8

- Serial RS-232

- 2 Bottom Switch

- 1 A/D

- 1 Wire DS1820

- 16 Char * 2 Line

- I2C Expand

ATMEGA32+ SD


Support

- ATMEGA32

- Serial RS-232

- 2 Bottom Switch

- 2 A/D Port

- 2 LED

- 1 Buzzer

- 16 Char * 2 Line

- I/O 6 Bit Expand

PIC USB18F4550


Support

- PIC18F4550 USB

- 1 USB Port

- 2 Bottom Switch

- 2 A/D

- 4 LED

- 1 Buzzer

- 16 Char * 2 Line

- I/O 6 Bit Expand

PIC LAB 18Fxxx, 16Fxxx


Support

- PIC18,16Fxxx

- Serial RS-232

- 2 Bottom Switch

- 2 A/D

- 4 LEDS

- 1 Buzzer

- 16 Char * 2 Line

- I/O 6 Bit Expand

AT89LP4051

Support

- AT89LP4051

- SPI Programing

- Serial RS-232

- 1 Bottom Switch

- 2 A/D

- 1 Buzzer

- 16 Char * 2 Line

- DS1307 RTC

PIC 18F4550 USB Full Speed , Thanks my friend J1M

Application on PC, VC#2005

ATMEGA32 for SD/MMC FAT16/32

Thanks my friend john B-Logic

Sorry This page under construction



The PCB Boards All is Design By Jnut & made in thailand

wara microcircuit

http://www.Warapcb.com

The Board is a Project for seed book and wara.com

Direct Success With A Computer Programming Degree

A computer programming degree is one of the most sought after degrees in the field of information technology. While it is often mistaken as one of the easier areas of IT, the truth of the matter is: those who do not have an aptitude for detail or the ability to think in an abstract manner may not find it as easy as they assume it is. A computer programmer is one who, like other hands on vocations, must work with extreme precision and craftsmanship.

At the same time, many people choose computer programming because it is not a deep or multi faceted subject as that of chemistry, physics or other material sciences. While computer science has its own theories, it is not the center of the world for computer programming. Many enjoy computer programming for its physical, hands on approach.

One of the things that can make earning a computer programming degree much easier is a natural tendency for paying attention to detail. Unknown to many, computers are simple machines that will only do as they are instructed. A programmer whose job is to set forth directives knows that leaving out even the smallest part of information can cause major problems.

Another helpful skill to have is that of a good memory. The number of variables that go into a computer program concerning syntax, functions, bugs, solutions and much more can be quite staggering. However, the more information and data one can remember on their own, the more successful their career will be.

Some would say the most crucial skill for this line of work is being able to keep a number of complex working systems in mind all at once. While this will take some time and skill to master, it is one of the great traits of a computer programmer. This ability to think abstractly can help with programs exhibiting up to 1,000,000 or more lines of code.

Typically, a Bachelor's degree is required for many entry-level positions in this field. Those who graduate with a Bachelor's degree will have training in analytics and the implementation of computer systems as well as maintenance and even design. With this type of computer programming degree one may find themselves with career opportunities in software programming, network programming or website programming.

A master's degree in computer programming allows graduates to implement high-level software programs. Because of the ever-changing world of technology, they often design software for business environments that greatly rely on technology as well. While being trained in a number of different programs, those with Master's degrees also put their leadership skills into use as the head or director of IT departments.

Whether opting for a Bachelor's or Master's, many in this field find they have the benefit of one of the highest earning powers of any industry available. With such a heavy dependence on computers and technology, the demand for such professionals is in just about every area on the map. There is no doubt that this is a strong profession with a solid future.

This type of degree means always getting to be at the forefront of the latest changes. Programmers must also earn certifications in certain programs and update them regularly to keep up with the newest technologies. Many in this field enjoy the opportunity to continue learning and the ongoing training needed in this fast paced world.

A computer programming degree encompasses so much that many in this field find their career constantly evolving right along with technology. There are so many different areas in which to branch out and grow, there is no worry of ever becoming bored or getting stuck in a rut. Programmers have the fulfillment that comes with seeing their work have a positive effect.

Stepper Motor Voltage Doubler Circuit


A stepper motor can be used in conjuction with PVC rotor blades to make a very cheap DIY wind turbine generator. Stepper motors can be bought new quite cheaply, but they can also be cannibalised out of old printers, floppy disk drives, and other sources.

Stepper Motors

NEW Learn more about stepper motors and find out how to identify their wiring reading our article stepper motor basics.

On the side of most stepper motors is printed the rated voltage and the current per phase. Often an excellent stepper motor will be discarded by the renewable energy enthusiast because the rated voltage is below the voltage required for the application - for example, an excellent 6 Volt rated stepper motor would often be ignored by someone looking to make a wind turbine generator to charge a 12V battery.

In some cases a low voltage stepper motor can be used as is since the high speed of rotation of a small wind turbine generator will send the voltage generated high above the rated voltage. However, in time the stepper motor and its bearings will be damaged by being spun much faster than it was designed for. Instead a simple voltage doubler circuit should be considered.

Voltage Doubler Circuits and Wind Turbines

A voltage doubler circuit does exactly that - it doubles voltage. The power generated by the stepper motor does not change, therefore following Ohm's Law it can be seen that the output current must be halved if the voltage is to double.

Using a voltage doubler enables a useful voltage to be ouput at low rotational speeds with the disadvantage that the current generated at high speeds is lower than it would be without the voltage doubler.

However, wind speed distributions can be modelled with the Weibull Distribution. This tells us that a wind turbine will experience low and moderate wind speeds far more often than it will experience strong gales. Therefore using a voltage doubler with a low voltage stepper motor wind turbine will result in more charge getting to the batteries overall.

Stepper Motor Voltage Doubler Circuit


Stepper Motor Voltage Doubler Circuit

Making a voltage doubler for a stepper motor is very simple because stepper motors generate four-phase alternating current (AC) electricity. Therefore all we need is a couple of suitably rated bridge rectifiers wired as per the circuit diagram displayed above.

The AC voltage from each of the two pairs of stepper motor coils is rectified by a bridge rectifier into DC voltage and the two output voltages are then added together giving a total output of double the original voltage, but with a current equivalent to that generated by just one pair of coils.
nb. Don't forget that between 1 and 1.4 volts is dropped (i.e. lost) in each bridge rectifier.

The two capacitors are used to give a smooth output DC voltage. If the voltage doubler is for sub-16V applications, then the following 1000uF 16V Capacitors available from the REUK Shop will do the job.

NEW Find out lots more about the practicalities of making voltage doublers, triplers, and quadruplers with our new article Making Voltage Doublers and Multipliers

Smoothing Capacitors

Capacitor placed in circuit between positive and negative DC outputs of the bridge rectifier
Suitably rated capacitors can be used to smooth the output voltage to keep it fairly constant so it can be used directly in electronic applications as well as in battery charging. One capacitor should be placed across the positive and negative outputs of one bridge rectifier, and a second capacitor used similarly across the outputs of the other bridge rectifier.

Rectified and Smoothed DC output from a Dynohub



Buying Bridge Rectifiers

A range of bridge rectifiers is available for sale in the REUK Shop including 1.5 Amp bridge rectifiers which are perfect for use with small stepper motors , and 35 Amp bridge rectifiers which can be used with much larger stepper motors.

Bridge Rectifier circuit

For most alternative energy applications, we require a direct current (DC) voltage to be generated - for example to charge a bank of batteries. However wind turbines and wave power generators create an alternating current (AC) voltage. This is where the Bridge Rectifier comes in. The AC voltage generated is passed through a circuit of four diodes arranged as shown below and emerged converted into a more useful DC output.

Animation of a bridge rectifier in operation

Diodes allow electricity to flow in only one direction, but there is a small voltage lost across the a diode of 0.7V called the forward voltage drop. If the diode is wired in the wrong direction then no current (actually a very tiny current) flows across the diode. However, if the voltage is too high and goes over the diode's maximum reverse voltage, the diode will breakdown and fail.

If you would like to make your own bridge rectifier then the 1N4001 diode is perfect for most low voltage circuits where the current is less than 1A. The 1N5401 diode is used where the maximum current is 3A. They are extremely cheap at just a couple of pounds for a hundred on eBay. Click here for instructions on making your own bridge rectifier from diodes.

Start Your Engines! - 2-Way Car Alarm Systems

Get Ready For Winter With A Remote Start

Accord car sudio

เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ จากร้าน SFx Sound Effect โดยคุณแซม เจ้าของร้าน บริการติดตั้ง เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ ทุกรุ่น ทุกยี่ห้อ บริการติดตั้งเครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ กรุงเทพ ประเทศไทย จำหน่าย และติดตั้งเครื่องเสียง รถยนต์ ที่ SFx Sound Effect
Car Audio เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ กรุงเทพ บริการ และจำหน่าย เครื่องเสียง รถยนต์ ด้วยสินค้าแบรนด์เนม จากต่างประเทศ แซม ผู้เชี่ยวชาญ ในการติดตั้งอุปกรณ์ เครื่องเสียง รถยนต์ เจ้าของร้าน SFx Sound Effect

ntroduction

There was a day when I used to have an ultra-cool stereo in my car. Ten-CD changer in the back, subwoofer mounted alongside the trunk and specially placed speakers throughout the car’s interior. The Honda Civic was a virtual boom box on wheels. To be honest, for what I wanted, it was a bit of an overkill.


Sure, it’s great to have access to 10 CDs but I also had to memorize which ones were in the stack, and odds were I wanted to listen to something else. Then there came the mounting of that changer – directly under the trunk’s interior light. Didn’t seem like much of a problem at first, but searching for that escaped orange from the grocery bag became more difficult in the dark. There also was that nice little whistling sound that echoed throughout the high-tech speaker system whenever I drove over bumps or railroad tracks, which, of course, never happened when it was in the shop.

It wasn’t a hard decision to ditch the sound system when I traded in the Civic for a ’99 Volkswagen Jetta. It was factory-install time. The thing is, not many people want to dish out the extra bucks for luxuries when making a car purchase. So after a year of running around with a stock stereo, it was back to the aftermarket goodies for me. This time, rather than being pushed into a system that was out of my league, I choose the features that best suited me.

Things to keep in mind

Time spent in the car

The type of sound system you choose will vary depending upon if you have a quickie 15-minute drive to work or a raucous hour-plus haul.

Convenience vs. variety

In other words, do you want a six, eight, 10 or even 12 CD changer or will an in-dash model suffice? Even with my previous sonic misgivings, there’s something to be said for not having to dig around for Chris Issak’s Forever Blue when the mood hits.

CD/Cassette

Many lower-end models either offer a CD or a cassette player. If you enjoy listening to books on tape while you take to the highways, you may want to opt for a high-end (and higher-priced) model with both options.

Theft Deterrence

Many models offer detachable faceplates. Words of wisdom: this little number only works if you actually remove the faceplate. And, don’t leave it in your glove box – stereo thieves happen to know that trick. The obvious problem is: many people fail to remove the plate. Other models have a plate that rotates when you turn off the vehicle, which makes it look like it’s been removed.

Suitability for the Car

Don’t go for just what’s on sale. Choose the model that will fit your make of car the best.

Once again, the web makes purchasing easier. When I went to buy my stereo, I turned to Crutchfield.com. (And unlike many automotive enthusiast magazines, I’m not getting a free stereo or bringing in advertisements for saying this.) Crutchfield offers a nifty service where they tell you what systems and models best fit your vehicle. In this case, I choose a Blaupunkt Alaska. Reasons being: name recognition – the receiver won "Best of Show" award for innovations in Car Audio at the 1999 Consumer Electronics Show – convenient, in-dash CD, a car-full of programmable station buttons to serve my channel-changing habits, plus a few high-end features that make it stand out such as DigiCeiver technology, CD namer for 30 discs and a radio data system, which tells what station is playing without user programming. The list price was $370, but the stereo happened to be on sale for $199.95.

I also bought a Blaupunkt THUM3, which is a remote control that attaches to the steering wheel. Truth be told, it was a little feature that I happened to have in the Civic that I really liked. The remote control means as a driver, you don’t have to take your hands off the steering wheel. Safety is always a good thing. Crutchfield also offers free instructions to install the stereo yourself, and a free installation and wiring harness if necessary. I cannot say that I installed the system myself, but it took my husband less than an hour to take out the factory model and slide in the new one. The best thing? It’s just what I wanted.

mini couper car audio System

Many people that I talked to were pretty surprised when I told them we were building a Mini Cooper. After all, its small size makes it one of the more difficult vehicles to install a massive audio/video system into. However, BMW (the manufacturer of the Cooper) made us an offer we couldn't refuse, making our car choice easy. A few phone calls and faxed documents and we had a new, silver Mini Cooper S delivered to Alpine headquarters the last week of May.

Of course, it didn't stay stock for long. The first step, as always, was to completely strip the interior of the car to see what we had to work with. With the inside gone, we can see how easy or difficult it will be to build the system we want to build. In this case, the Mini didn't provide any particularly weird or difficult hurdles that we hadn't dealt with before.

Now that we knew what we were up against, it was time to start the fabrication. The first thing on the list was to make a box to hold the batteries and power supplies that would keep a constant 14 volts flowing to the power-hungry system. The best place for this box was in the rear of the car, behind the back wheels. The stock Mini has the battery in this area, as well as two HUGE mufflers on either side. The exhaust system was removed first, and the stock battery was taken out next. After that, the floor was cut out with a plasma cutter to make way for the custom-built steel box.

02: The dash area was completely removed, including the heater/AC unit.

After the floor was cut out, the edges were ground down and the paint was removed around the cut area. Next, box pieces were built from 16-gauge cold-rolled steel, and the pieces were welded together to form the enclosure. The steel box was placed in the car, and after some final fitting, it was tack welded in place. One-inch-tube steel braces were welded around the box to more firmly attach it to the car, and finally the seam was finished by applying 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive to both the inside and outside surfaces. A polished stainless steel bottom panel was also built for the box, and it was bolted to the main box using 10-24 hex bolts and nutserts.

Next on the list was the emergency brake. Since we were planning on a center-drive setup on this car, the brake would have to move from its normal location. Instead of simply moving it, we decided to motorize it using a 4-inch linear actuator. We built a steel bracket to bolt it to the car and an adapter to make the two brake cables pull evenly. A switch inside the car is all it takes to apply or release the brake, so it makes the brake invisible on the interior.

One problem that we always have with demo cars is dead batteries. Whenever you wire a demo system for constant operation, small current draws will eventually kill the battery if the circuit breaker is accidentally left engaged. Of course, this makes these cars difficult to move around from show to show. This time, we decided to have separate batteries for the car and the system to solve this problem. The system batteries were mounted in the steel box we built earlier, and we decided to mount the car's battery under the car in the center tunnel originally occupied by the exhaust system. This small battery is perfect for starting the Mini, and it is isolated from the sound system so we know we will always be able to move the car when we need to. To finish off the exhaust system, we simply built a "dump" tube, firing the exhaust out of the catalytic converter down to the ground underneath the car.

That's it for this month, so send your questions to sbrown@alpine-usa.com, and check out SteveBrownUniversity.com.


03: The stock floor area is stepped, and the center hump is fairly tall. In addition, the e-brake would have to be moved under the car.
03: The stock floor area is stepped, and the center hump is fairly tall. In addition, the e-brake would have to be moved under the car.
04: The rear-mounted battery was removed in order to put a steel box under the car to house batteries and power supplies. The actual battery that starts the car was moved underneath the center hump.
04: The rear-mounted battery was removed in order to put a steel box under the car to house batteries and power supplies. The actual battery that starts the car was moved underneath the center hump.
05: The battery box from the bottom view, as well as the space taken up by the stock exhaust.
05: The battery box from the bottom view, as well as the space taken up by the stock exhaust.
06: Here, Mike is cutting out the stock rear floor with a plasma cutter.
06: Here, Mike is cutting out the stock rear floor with a plasma cutter.
07: The edges of the cut were ground smooth, and the paint was removed to allow proper welding of the new steel enclosure.
07: The edges of the cut were ground smooth, and the paint was removed to allow proper welding of the new steel enclosure.
08: The under-car enclosure was constructed from 16-gauge steel, and here's me tack welding the pieces together to check the fit.
08: The under-car enclosure was constructed from 16-gauge steel, and here's me tack welding the pieces together to check the fit.
09: From the bottom, we can see that the enclosure is flush with the lowest part of the car's suspension, creating the most possible space inside. It's lower than the bumper but the new body kit will fix that.
09: From the bottom, we can see that the enclosure is flush with the lowest part of the car's suspension, creating the most possible space inside. It's lower than the bumper but the new body kit will fix that.
10: The steel box was welded in place and sealed with 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive, a super-strong epoxy that is used in automotive construction.
10: The steel box was welded in place and sealed with 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive, a super-strong epoxy that is used in automotive construction.
11: The emergency brake had to be removed, so we decided to make it operate electrically via a 4-inch linear actuator underneath the car.
11: The emergency brake had to be removed, so we decided to make it operate electrically via a 4-inch linear actuator underneath the car.
12: A steel mount was made to hold the e-brake actuator in place, and it was attached to the bottom of the car using two stock bolts.
12: A steel mount was made to hold the e-brake actuator in place, and it was attached to the bottom of the car using two stock bolts.
13: This is the battery that starts the car, mounted under the center hump on a custom steel plate. It is isolated from the sound system by a breaker so it will never leave us stranded even if the system batteries are totally dead.
13: This is the battery that starts the car, mounted under the center hump on a custom steel plate. It is isolated from the sound system by a breaker so it will never leave us stranded even if the system batteries are totally dead.
14: Here we can see the dump-style exhaust, making the most possible space under the car.
14: Here we can see the dump-style exhaust, making the most possible space under the car.






เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ จากร้าน SFx Sound Effect โดยคุณแซม เจ้าของร้าน บริการติดตั้ง เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ ทุกรุ่น ทุกยี่ห้อ บริการติดตั้งเครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ กรุงเทพ ประเทศไทย จำหน่าย และติดตั้งเครื่องเสียง รถยนต์ ที่ SFx Sound Effect
Car Audio เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ กรุงเทพ บริการ และจำหน่าย เครื่องเสียง รถยนต์ ด้วยสินค้าแบรนด์เนม จากต่างประเทศ แซม ผู้เชี่ยวชาญ ในการติดตั้งอุปกรณ์ เครื่องเสียง รถยนต์ เจ้าของร้าน SFx Sound Effect
เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ ประสิทธิภาพสูง แรง ราคาไม่แพง บริการติดตั้งอุปกรณ์รถยนต์ ทุกชนิด โดยช่างผู้ชำนาญการ เจ้าของร้าน คุณแซม SFx Sound Effect ร้านติดตั้งอุปกรณ์เครื่องเสียง ใน กรุงเทพ โดยเจ้าของร้าน ช่างผู้ชำนาญการ เรื่องอุปกรณ์รถยนต์